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C - Climber P - Perennial
S
- Shrub T
- Tree
Burglar Proof
Plants
Lots of nasty spikes to put off
all but the most determined. Use these to make a hedge or grow up against a
vulnerable garden wall or downstairs window. Not really suitable for formal
neatly clipped hedges, best allowed to do their own thing for the best deterrent
effect. If you don't want to give the impression of a hedge i.e. you want a
shrub border instead, then mix up different types of Pyracantha and Berberis for
functionality with beauty.
Berberis - Barberry S
A very varied group of evergreen or deciduous flowering shrubs
with a variety of leaf colors especially in the deciduous types where autumn color
may also be very good. Not obviously spiny at first glance, the numerous
needle-like thorns are borne just underneath the leaves so a harmless looking
plant can give a quite unexpected "bite".
Apart from this they're also an exceptionally useful group of
shrubs for their ornamental value too!
Berberis darwinii is a real star, smothered in dark
orange flowers in mid to late spring with sometimes a further show in the autumn
evergreen, particularly good for hedges, to 10ft high and wide. B.
stenophylla is similar with some varieties such as "Claret
cascade" giving red tinged orange flowers. |
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Berberis thunbergii is a good deciduous form that
comes in a variety of leaf colors from the vibrant yellow young foliage of "Aurea"
(to 6ft x 6ft) to the speckled rose and purple forms such as "Rose
Glow" and "Atropurpurea" the last one has fiery red autumn
foliage. Flowers of red, pink or white depending on variety.
Best in sun especially for foliage color and flowers, will
tolerate some shade.
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Pyracantha -
firethorn S
 One of the most useful garden shrubs, evergreen, tough and
resilient to most things (though fireblight disease can be a problem as can woolly
aphids to a lesser degree) and usually unfussy about situation and soil. They
can be pruned pretty hard and made to grow in the directions we want without
sulking. They're evergreen, produce loads of white flowers in the spring and
thousands of brightly colored long lasting berries in the autumn of shades from
red through orange to yellow until the blackbirds come and eat them. They also have lots of long, sharp and
strong thorns.
There are a great many varieties available some being upright
and some more prostrate and in different berry colors.
 
Plants for Dry
Shade
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One of the most difficult areas
in the garden to find plants for. There are plenty of plants that grow well in
dry conditions but they tend to be sun lovers, and there are quite a few that
can put up with shade if there's a lot of moisture available. For dry shade
though, in the lee and shadow of a wall or fence or beneath a tree or hedge
there are far less options.
Firstly be realistic. If
your dry shade is beneath a large evergreen such as yew, then virtually nothing
is going to grow there. It will be shady all year round and as well as the
branches and leaves intercepting the rain and channeling it to the trunk, there
will be strongly competitive roots just below the soil surface to contend with.
It's therefore a question of trial and error to some degree.
If you can't get
plants to grow as close to the area that you would like (up against a hedge
bottom for instance), then try coming just a little bit further away. If the
area has proven particularly difficult in the past try just one or two plants at
different distances rather than consigning lots of them to certain death
early on. If things still don't grow, then it may be time to withdraw
gracefully - as a rule of thumb if grass or weeds won't grow very well in a
particular area, then something prettier and more ornamental almost certainly
won't!
Any shady soil can be
given a boost by incorporating compost, leaf mold and
Lets not give up before
we've started, these are some plants that have more than a sporting chance.
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Aucuba japonica - spotted laurel S
Evergreen shrub, with glossy
leaves to 8" long spotted yellow. Plants are either male or female, females
have bright red berries in autumn. Tolerant of quite deep shade and indeed
requires some shade to be really happy. Will grow in difficult situations and
tolerant of dry soil. To about 10ft high and wide but easily controlled. Frequently sold as three or
four rooted cuttings in a pot, separate them and you instantly have more plants!
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Iris foetidissima - Stinking gladwyn P
What does a plant do to deserve such horrible
names? A member of the iris family, though the flowers are easily overlooked. It
produces very attractive bright orange seeds in large number that shine in the autumn when
the pods split open, and it is very tolerant of dry shade.
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Lamium - cultivated dead-nettles P
 A group that spans very pretty plants with lovely
variegated foliage to ones that are not far short of looking like weeds.
Difficult to give recommendations, because difficult conditions often make good
looking plants appear weedy, the best bet is to try one and see if still looks
good when up against the odds. The darker the green of the plant, the more
chlorophyll and so the more likely it is to withstand shade, don't bother trying
the almost completely white types.


Mentha - Mint P
As
in the herb. Mint is a notoriously vigorous plant and if it didn't have its
flavour as a saving grace, I'm sure that it would be considered as a weed. This
vigour makes it an ideal plant for difficult conditions which also serve to calm
it down somewhat. I've grown mint in the shade of a Lleylandii hedge within
about 18" of the trunks, so it's tough and keeps going! Pink to purple
flowers that the bees love and flavouring for new potatoes and lamb chops, Brussels
sprouts too, but that's an acquired taste.
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Vinca major and Vinca
minor - Periwinkle
S
 Variegated ground cover plant
with blue spring / summer flowers. To about 20" tall, spread indefinite, roots
as it goes. Very tough once established, and tolerates sun or shade. Vinca
minor is equally unfazed by novice gardeners or shade, will confine
itself to about 8" and a much reduced spread.
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Wild / wood Strawberry P
I
have grown these in and amongst mint in the least promising of all conditions
and they have performed admirably. The leaves are a fresh green and the plants
produce tiny white flowers and tiny strawberries.
Don't think that these will
get you through Wimbledon week in traditional style however, difficult
conditions mean that there's little energy to spare for such fripperies. Wild
strawberries also have the advantage that they root as they go by runners so
they find their own preferred place if you plant them a bit too close (or even
too far away) to the gruesome places. |

Seasonal underplanting
Most of the trees providing summer gloom admit plenty of light in
winter. The opportunity should be seized for underplanting them with winter and
early spring-flowering bulbs. These can provide a sheet of color in their
season but complete their growing in time to be at rest once more when the shade
thickens.
The autumn-flowering Cyclamen will oblige, with pink or
white flowers. The foliage, a great asset in itself with its different shades of
green, will not develop until late autumn and will be at its best through to
April; then it withers quite naturally.
In January, winter aconites, Eranthis
hyemalis , will flower in sheets - cupped yellow blooms surrounded by a ruff of
leaves. If they take to you, they will spread with their own seedlings. (For me,
they have always been an abysmal failure) These can be joined, in February, by
another great self-sower, the little mauve Crocus tommasinianus.
Tiny daffodils such as Narcissus cyclamineus and the hoop-petticoat,
N.
bulbocodium are good and there'll be blue Scilla siberica and
Chionodoxa
sardensis , none of them dying with obtrusive foliage. Spanish bluebells, on the
other hand, so common in London gardens, die horribly in May, but you might
think them worth it for their April display.
In summer there is a place for dignified bareness if all else fails. Keep it
tidy and not scruffy so it looks like a definite decision rather than having
ended up like that because you can't do any different.
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