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Spring Flowering Bulbs and Winter
Flowering Shrubs
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Three of the best Daffodils -
more Daffodils |
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Mount
Hood
Large white trumpet, good for naturalizing in grass
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King
Alfred
Large yellow trumpet, good for naturalizing in grass |
Daffodil
Collection, Colorful Cupful
Ice
white petals, pink or lemon trumpets |
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Three of the best Tulips -
more Tulips |
Tulip
sampler collection
53 bulbs, 8 varieties |
Tulip,
White Emperor
plant in a large shallow container - at least 8-10 bulbs for an
extravagant and elegant spring treat |
Tulip,
Rembrandt
Bright blooms streaked, striped, and splashed with contrasting
colors. |
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Three of the best Hyacinths -
more Hyacinths |
Hyacinth,
Large Exhibition-Size
Forget anything you've ever smelled from a bottle, these are the
real deal |
Hyacinth,
Blue Ice
single color groups are ideal for containers, flowering at the same
time |
Hyacinth,
City of Haarlem
pale yellow, that's Haarlem BTW - in Holland!
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One
of the secrets of having a garden that others envy is by planning things
well in advance, by the time you admire something in the garden
centre, it's often about 6 months too late to do anything about it for
this year in your own garden. Bulb catalogues start to come out in August
and the garden centres fill up with bulbs too, so start planning now
for next spring and also for scent in the garden this winter.
If you start before about the middle
of September (but the sooner the better), you can have Spring Flowering Bulbs
for the house in flower at or just after Christmas. If you can get them
planted now, then they will have a chance to start growing before it begins to get
very cold which will help them to flower all the earlier, they'll certainly be up
early in the new year and long before the outdoor ones have woken up.
There
are all sorts of spring bulbs to try and the available varieties increase
each year.
By all means try something out of
the ordinary, but in the main stick to the old favourites, after all
it's no accident that they are favourites. I've tried all manner of
unusual things in the past, some of which have been reasonable, but
many have flowered late, poorly or not at all. In particular, they are
better outdoors, but don't all take quite so kindly to being indoors
in pots.
In general think about scale when
planting spring flowering bulbs. Apart from the odd warm sunny day
that may tempt you out into the garden, you are going to appreciate
your bulbs from a distance and either in the front garden or through
a window at the back. So plant larger flowered varieties particularly
if they're far away, always plant in clumps at any distance (one bulb
usually gives one flower) and plant small flowered or dwarf varieties
near to the house or in pots.
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Hyacinths
Nothing surpasses the first hyacinths for scent, It's like time travel
for the nose having wonderfully fragrant hyacinths in full bloom in
the middle of the winter, it always seems like the greatest luxury.
Before you plant them
up, unless they are "prepared" they will need to be convinced that winter
has been and gone. Place them in a dark place (a brown paper bag is
good) somewhere in the refrigerator (not the freezer!) for at least
two weeks, then take them out in mid to late September and plant them
up in bowls.
Plant 3 or 4 of one color
per bowl. The bulbs should be almost touching with a small gap between
them so they actually aren't. Don't be tempted to mix different varieties
as the chances are they won't flower all at the same time. I tend to
go for the blues and whites, which as well as being my favourite flower
colors, are reliable.
After planting put them
somewhere sheltered and dark in the garage/ shed or wherever, keep them
cool and take a peek every now and then to make sure they're growing.
Once they're about 3
inches tall, they can be brought into the house and kept somewhere cool,
50-60F. If your timing is right you'll have your very own home grown
hyacinths for Christmas! If you get it a bit wrong, don't worry, they'll
still flower in the depths of winter and you get the wonderful scent.
Outdoor hyacinths
are best planted near to the house where you will see them and smell
them, even the large varieties are very close to the ground. Alternatively
I plant them out of the way but near a path, there's a large patch now
at the bottom of the garden near the compost heap, (no, not to get rid
of the smell), but for cutting and bringing into the house. I can't
ever remember buying a hyacinth bulb and planting it into the soil directly,
all of ours are ex-container grown ones that spent their first year
in the house.
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Tulips
Tulips
are amongst my favourite flowers of any type, they manage to balance
symmetrical perfection with a faultless elegance of proportion with
that indefinable delicacy and vulnerability that the finest flowers
have.
Best planted in groups
of one variety, this applies to all bulbs, but more so for tulips than
any of the others, why anyone should buy a bag of "mixed varieties and
colors" is beyond me.
Take care if you have
yellow tulips and daffodils, they can get rather mixed up when flowering
together.
Of the other colors,
traditional large reds are very robust and will grow in most places,
but the finest to my eye at least are the white and pink
lily-flowered varieties. These have rather taller thinner flowers
than most tulips with a slightly out-turned tip to each petal.
Grown in containers for
the house tulips are an extravagance as you need a large container and
the flowers are rather short lived if you bring them into the warmth.
I'd never be without a couple of large bowls of my favourites though,
bring them indoors in the day and place them outside somewhere sheltered
in the evening. If you have a cool (non-heated) conservatory, all the
better.
The shops and markets
in spring will be full of freshly cut tulips of the common shapes and
shades, so go for something a little out of the ordinary. Smaller
species tulips are becoming more commonly available, they don't seem
to do so well indoors but are ideal for a large outdoor container, just
outside the front door is one of the best places to appreciate them
as often as possible.
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Daffodils and Narcissi
Daffodil
or Narcissus? The botanical name is Narcissus and so all
daffodils are Narcissi. A daffodil is an artificial category dreamt
up by gardeners for narcissi that have long trumpets - and usually
that are wholly or mainly yellow in colour. If a Narcissus has a
short cup-shaped trumpet and particularly if it has pale petals and
the trumpet is darker in colour, it will be referred to as a
Narcissus.
The
larger flowered varieties look good when planted through grass, plant
them in clumps of around 10 bulbs rather than dotted around. This makes
them look more spectacular when they flower and easier to deal with
the leaves after flowering. Long thin single rows of flowers just look
a bit sad somehow.
Bear in mind though if
you're tempted to go for one of those giant sacks of bulbs that it's
actually quite a task to plant them at the correct depth (the top of
the bulb should be about twice it's height below the surface of the
soil) and that they should be planted as soon as possible after buying
them.
To plant in grass,
cut a large X with a spade, this will give you four 2-sided triangles
(you'll see what I mean when you do it!) peel back the sod of each of
these triangles (you won't actually be able to "peel" - you'll need
to force the spade a couple of inches under the turf to loosen it first).
You then have a square of soil to plant your bulbs in. I strongly suggest
that you have a large sheet of something standing by to put the soil
on that you dig out (with a spade - trowels encourage small shallow
holes - spades encourage larger). Plant your bulbs, replace the soil,
fold the sod back over and tread it down gently.
You could use one of
those bulb planters that looks like a bottomless tin-can with a handle
- depends whether or not you think you've enough junk in the shed.
The shorter multi-headed
varieties look better up close than at a distance and so are better
placed in containers around the house or in pots to bring into the house,
these do better indoors in pots and again the shops will be full of
cheap cut flowers of the larger varieties. |
Planting in containers
The key point to remember is that
these are temporary plantings, so you can plant the bulbs very close together,
almost touching, for the maximum density of flowers. Buy the largest bulbs
you can afford, smaller ones just don't perform as well and the smallest
may produce lots of leaves but no flowers at all. After flowering plant them in
the garden as soon as you can, they won't perform as well next year, you need to
start with large bought ones again.
Bulb fibre is often recommended,
but is only really necessary if the bulbs are to be planted in bowls without drainage.
I've always treated bulbs like any other container plants and use ordinary potting
compost in containers that have drainage holes and get excellent results.

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Winter scent
and flowers outdoors
Many plants outdoors
will continue to grow until the frosts start in October or maybe even
November (it seems to get later every year), so you can plant shrubs
now to get them established and ready to perform as soon as the alarm
clock rings next spring.
It's well worth putting
a winter flowering shrub in now to appreciate it's efforts when much
of the fruits of your gardening efforts are still distant hopes. To
get much flower the first year, they need to be fairly biggish specimens
already. Plant them near to the door or along well used paths,
You're going to be less inclined to traipse down to the bottom of a
wet and largely dormant garden to smell one particular bush, however
tempting it may be.
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Viburnum
bodnantense "Dawn" - Fragrant rose-tinted flowers borne on bare
wood from late autumn to early spring. Eventually to 10ft tall by 6ft
wide. Not too fussy about soil. If you only have one winter flowering
shrub, have this one. |
Chimonanthus praecox - Winter Sweet.
Similar in size, and habit to the Viburnum
above, but with yellow flowers not as long lasting. |
Hamemelis - witch hazel. Large
deciduous shrub with fragrant frost-resistant spidery flowers in winter
that are yellow or shades of orange depending on variety. Produces brilliant
golden yellow autumn foliage as well, which looks good if underplanted
with purple autumn crocuses, Colchicum speciosum (only available
in late summer and need to planted immediately). Best in full sun, not
keen on an exposed site. To 12ft high and wide, 5ft high and wide for
Hamemelis x intermedia pallida. |
Mahonia.
Evergreens with holly-like leaves and a very "architectural" habit.
Fragrant yellow flowers in large quantities once the plant gets going.
Ultimately to 10ft x 10ft but takes ages to get there and easily contained
to lesser sizes. Recommended M. aquifolium "Apollo" - Oregon
Grape, shade tolerant. M. x media "charity", not quite as hardy
or shade tolerant, but a more gracious plant. A strong rival to Viburnum
"Dawn" above with the evergreen advantage. |
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