Pruning - 1

 

Principles     The rule of thirds. When pruning either reduce the number of stems of shrubs down to ground level by a third (take out the thickest each time) or reduce the stems by a third of their length.     Little and often. Like all living things, plants respond best to little and often. Pruning of shrubs should be done on an annual basis, severe pruning for the rejuvenation of a large neglected plant is sometimes necessary, but should be seen as an emergency measure, rather than a standard procedure.     Prune after flowering. As a rule of thumb, if in doubt prune immediately after flowering. This is not a universal rule, but applies to the majority of plants. It prevents the plant from putting energy into seed formation and ensures that you enjoy the maximum number of flowers for that season. Likewise remove dead flower heads if the plant is likely to keep flowering.     Always remove dead stems and branches as soon as you notice them - Irrespective of time of year. Dead wood will attract disease which may well spread to the healthy parts of the plant.     When removing dead wood, cut back into live material. For the same reason as above.     Always use sharp secateurs or loppers. If your cutters are blunt, the branch or twig may crush or tear, this results in a jagged edge that makes it much easier for disease to take a hold.     Pruning a mature plant will stimulate growth. This can be a way of rejuvenating a large neglected plant. You also need to aware that this stimulation will happen whether you want it to or not! If you are pruning because a plant has grown too large, its first response will probably be to keep on growing, so you may need to remove the new growth too after a little while.     If there are no buds in the area of the cut, then generally the plant will not grow back from the cut. With a few exceptions, plants will not grow new green shoots from dormant brown wood.     Remove suckers as they appear. Suckers are very strong, fast developing shoots which grow straight up from roots or branches. Their stems are usually bigger but not as strong as ordinary branches. If suckers have different foliage, they are growing from below the graft. Follow them back to the main stem and remove them carefully.

Pruning cuts should always be made into live wood or stem. They should be made just above a growing bud and slope downwards away from the top of the bud. The bud cut above should be facing outwards from the centre of the plant so that when it grows, the new growth will grow into a space, rather than inwards and compete with existing shoots

Before pruning	Position of cuts	After cuts are made
Most pruning of mature plants is to reduce the size, prevent branches rubbing or remove die-back.	Cuts of thicker branches are made at the point where they meet smaller ones, the smaller one is left to grow on.	Only the smallest twigs are cut straight across to avoid the "stumpy" look. Make all cuts of larger branches at the junction with a smaller branch, leaving the smaller branch to develop.

Rejuvenation

Pruning tools

Secateurs  Sort of "super scissors" for the garden. An absolute must for all pruning jobs. A good quality pair of secateurs are a must around the garden, probably the one tool that will be used most days as you walk around. For material to about little finger thickness.

Loppers For larger branches. Most will cope with material up to 25mm (1") in diameter. Loppers are easier and generally safer for many heavier pruning jobs than saws.

Pruning saw Used for thicker material, above 25mm (1") in diameter. Saws should also be used for cutting all dead material, they are easier to use than loppers for such jobs and give a cleaner cut.

Trees

Mature trees in general don't like being pruned. If you're thinking of planting a tree, then go for one that you will be happy with once it has reached its final mature size. 

There's nothing quite as sad as a tree that was planted in the wrong place and then later in its maturity had to have some major surgery on large branches that results in a stunted stumpy look.

If you do have to perform major surgery on a tree, first of all find out if you are in a conservation area or if the tree is protected, then consider calling in the professionals. If you're not sure what you're doing, it can be dangerous to you, harmful to the tree and result in a mutilated tree that will possibly never recover during its life-time (or yours).

Most tree pruning should be limited to the removal of dead branches or those that have been torn off by the wind. In both cases cut back to the nearest major junction with another branch. If you look carefully, at every major junction of branches is a raised ridge. This is the natural place where the tree will cut off all contact with the branch if it becomes damaged. Don't cut into or behind this ridge, the tree can then better cope if any disease infects the dead region.

Different trees are best pruned at different times of the year. 

Fruit trees: Pomes

The dormant winter months are an ideal time to prune the over congested spurs from pome fruits. Apples and pears are mainly spur-fruiting trees, meaning that the fruits are produced on short lateral branches some 6-12 inches long. When a tree has been growing for some time, these spurs become over-crowded. The result is a rather untidy looking tree, lots of blossom and lots of small and not very high quality fruit. If you reduce the spurs, then the overall yield won't increase, but you will get a good improvement in the size and quality of the fruit that form.