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Laying sod
- a day's job in most cases. If you have a large area, or
want to split the job up, spend one day preparing the surface and the second day
laying the sod.
A relatively
simple operation if hard work, put simply the steps are;
Remove large stones, weeds and other debris.
Rotavate to loosen soil up, rake and again remove weeds, stones etc.
Move soil about to level the site if necessary. Rake smooth.
Firm soil down, shuffle over the ground with both feet together, make sure the
whole area has been compacted this way.
A fertilizer can be applied at this point if desired. A general one such as
Gromore or blood, fish and bone. Make sure you rake it
in well to the soil before the sod is laid, then water well and leave
overnight before laying the sod.
Lay sods (green side up), stagger joins, take care not to stretch them. Unlaid
sod can be left for 1 or 2 days still rolled up if absolutely necessary (stored
in the shade, covered with burlap or similar and kept damp) but should
ideally be
laid the same day that they are lifted
Firm the sod down, give a really good soak.
Stay off the grass for at least two weeks, longer if possible. Water well every
2-3 days during dry spells.
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Quality of Sod
Beware Sod taken from meadow land. You may be offered
sod that
seems significantly cheaper than from other sources. The chances are that
this will be from a meadow. This is grass that has been growing
in a field some-where, not initially intended for lawns, and is then
lifted and sold. It will often contain weeds and coarse wild grasses. It
can be used, but is really "spoiling the ship for a ha'peth of
tar". Make sure you buy cultivated sod that has been grown as a crop
specifically for lifting and laying, it will be on good soil, weed free
and have the right kinds of grass species in it.
For most situations standard amenity grade is more than adequate, this is not bowling green and it
isn't rough grassland. It looks good with a modicum of care and will
withstand reasonable amounts of trampling by the feet of both people and
pets.
Make sure you ask before you buy, and beware bargains!
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  1/
The starting point for your sod laying may be very uninspiring, particularly if the property
is new and sod is not provided as in these
pictures. Remove particularly large stones by hand initially so as not to
damage the rotavator blades.
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 2/
The next job is to rotavate the whole area. The larger the rotavator, the
quicker it will be. Rotavators are available from tool hire shops, who
will often deliver and collect if arranged. Do not underestimate the
effort involved in controlling one of these machines, particularly in
manoeuvring around a small garden. Depending on the state of the soil, two
or three circuits should be enough. Smaller machines are available and are
lighter to control, but will obviously take longer to do the same
job.
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 3/
The rotavator will loosen stones (as well as bits of wood, old tin cans,
nails and all sorts of other rubbish), and dig up weeds. Any perennial
weeds with long tap roots should be individually dug out as far as
possible. These all then need to raked up...... |
4/ ...and removed from the site.
The remaining soil while not being completely stone free (unnecessary in
most cases) should have the majority removed. (6 barrow loads came
from this small garden)
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5/
The site should then levelled. With a roller if you have one, by shuffling
your feet if you don't (very good exercise!)
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6/
Sod is then rolled out in position. Start at a straight edge and stagger
the joints. Order about 5% more than the area you are covering to
allow for wastage at cut edges.
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7/
Keep 'em coming....
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8/ A final rolling helps to smooth
the finish and ensure that the underside of the grass is in contact with
the soil so that the roots can grow.
Now give it a really good watering.
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 9/
Two weeks on the result is a vibrant green lawn. The edges of individual
sods can be made out, but very shortly everything will blend in. If
there is a dry spell, the lawn will need to be watered every few days for
the first month or so. A good soak twice a week is better than a daily
dribble. The lawn should not be walked on for at least two weeks as not to
damage the fine newly developing grass roots as they grow out of the sod
into the soil below.
If there are gaps between the sods, then fill in using
a mix of sand and peat, the grass will soon knit across the top.
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With
thanks to Sid and Richard
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