How to Lay Sod

Laying sod - a day's job in most cases. If you have a large area, or want to split the job up, spend one day preparing the surface and the second day laying the sod.

A relatively simple operation if hard work, put simply the steps are;

    Remove large stones, weeds and other debris.

    Rotavate to loosen soil up, rake and again remove weeds, stones etc.

    Move soil about to level the site if necessary. Rake smooth.

    Firm soil down, shuffle over the ground with both feet together, make sure the whole area has been compacted this way.

    A fertilizer can be applied at this point if desired. A general one such as Gromore or blood, fish and bone. Make sure you rake it in well to the soil before the sod is laid, then water well and leave overnight before laying the sod.

    Lay sods (green side up), stagger joins, take care not to stretch them. Unlaid sod can be left for 1 or 2 days still rolled up if absolutely necessary (stored in the shade, covered with burlap or similar and kept damp) but should ideally be laid the same day that they are lifted

    Firm the sod down, give a really good soak.

    Stay off the grass for at least two weeks, longer if possible. Water well every 2-3 days during dry spells.

Quality of Sod

Beware Sod taken from meadow land. You may be offered sod that seems significantly cheaper than from other sources. The chances are that this will be from a meadow. This is grass that has been growing in a field some-where, not initially intended for lawns, and is then lifted and sold. It will often contain weeds and coarse wild grasses. It can be used, but is really "spoiling the ship for a ha'peth of tar". Make sure you buy cultivated sod that has been grown as a crop specifically for lifting and laying, it will be on good soil, weed free and have the right kinds of grass species in it.

For most situations standard amenity grade is more than adequate, this is not bowling green and it isn't rough grassland. It looks good with a modicum of care and will withstand reasonable amounts of trampling by the feet of both people and pets.

Make sure you ask before you buy, and beware bargains!

1/ The starting point for your sod laying may be very uninspiring, particularly if the property is new and sod is not provided as in these pictures. Remove particularly large stones by hand initially so as not to damage the rotavator blades.
2/ The next job is to rotavate the whole area. The larger the rotavator, the quicker it will be. Rotavators are available from tool hire shops, who will often deliver and collect if arranged. Do not underestimate the effort involved in controlling one of these machines, particularly in manoeuvring around a small garden. Depending on the state of the soil, two or three circuits should be enough. Smaller machines are available and are lighter to control, but will obviously take longer to do the same job.
3/ The rotavator will loosen stones (as well as bits of wood, old tin cans, nails and all sorts of other rubbish), and dig up weeds. Any perennial weeds with long tap roots should be individually dug out as far as possible. These all then need to raked up......	4/ ...and removed from the site. The remaining soil while not being completely stone free (unnecessary in most cases) should have the majority removed. (6 barrow loads came from this small garden)
5/ The site should then levelled. With a roller if you have one, by shuffling your feet if you don't (very good exercise!)	6/ Sod is then rolled out in position. Start at a straight edge and stagger the joints. Order about 5% more than the area you are covering to allow for wastage at cut edges.
7/ Keep 'em coming....	8/ A final rolling helps to smooth the finish and ensure that the underside of the grass is in contact with the soil so that the roots can grow. Now give it a really good watering.
9/ Two weeks on the result is a vibrant green lawn. The edges of individual sods can be made out, but very shortly everything will blend in. If there is a dry spell, the lawn will need to be watered every few days for the first month or so. A good soak twice a week is better than a daily dribble. The lawn should not be walked on for at least two weeks as not to damage the fine newly developing grass roots as they grow out of the sod into the soil below. If there are gaps between the sods, then fill in using a mix of sand and peat, the grass will soon knit across the top.
With thanks to Sid and Richard