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This Month - July
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Editorial
The garden is in full swing now and performing the various jobs becomes more
and more like spinning plates (you never see that on the telly any more though do
you?) take your eye off a corner somewhere and the weeds have a field day. Things
are also pretty set for the rest of the summer now, if you haven't got containers
and borders planted up, it's almost too late, unless you get large plants.
One exception, I venture to suggest, however is a container of petunias at nose-level
by your front door or patio. I have a large pot of dark purple Surfinias by the
front door that are held in place with a "hanging pot holder" this is a ring of
metal that sticks out horizontally with an attachment for a single screw to fix
it to the wall. The pot fits inside it and the lip of the pot holds it in place.
They are cheap and easy to use with plant pots of the right sort of size, being
somewhat bendable to fit. I haven't found anywhere online to buy them, but they
are not that hard to find at ironmongers, diy stores or garden centres.
They are easy to place and in the evening in particular if it is still, give
out a wonderful perfume by the door, taking over from my rose which is now over
until the second flush of flowers comes later in the season. I love scent in the
garden, and I love having flowers that give that scent right by the door, so as
soon as you step out of the house, you're in a different world. If you don't have
such an experience at the moment, then go and set one up tomorrow, few flowers in
your garden will give you so much joy this summer. I like Surfinias, a variety of
Petunia, though others can do the same thing. Surfinias tend to be a little informal
- untidy if you're uncharitable - and you may prefer a more restrained growth habit.
Darker colours seem to have the best scent, my white one is almost odourless (I
won't grow them again after this year), I had a double flowered purple picotee (white
edges to the purple petals) one year and they were fabulous, though I recall the
flowers became smaller as the season went on. Funny really as I normally dislike
flouncy flowers, but I love these - maybe the scent reaches me at a subliminal level.
Summer drought and heat - there are a number of things you can do to help
the garden
- Set the lawnmower a notch or two higher than normal.
- Don't worry about the grass going yellow or even brown, it's a great survivor
and should come back again when there's enough water.
- Water in the evening when there's less chance the water will be evaporated
by the sun before the plants can get it.
- If you've planted any large perennials, shrubs or trees in the last year,
they'll benefit from a little help through their first summer. Give them a full
watering can or bucket (about 10 litres) each every now and then. Not more than
once a week and a big deep drink. Little and often just encourages surface roots
and dependency.
- Get a water butt
Have you got a water butt? I know I
bang on about this, but they are just so convenient and useful. In the climate I
live in, the garden is watered from the sky and the butts filled at the same time,
90% of the time, by the time the butt empties, the sky does its bit again, dousing
the garden and filling the butts again for the next dry spell. It was getting very
dry until all the wonderful evening thunder storms and lightening of the last two
weeks. I enjoy lying in bed with pyrotechnics going on lighting the room and the
rumblings coming shortly afterwards - not so keen when the storm is right over head
though, that's a bit too loud - but I've been lucky.
One not so good thing about water butts is the mosquitoes that can start to breed
in the water. There's are two possible answers to this:
- Catch them by scooping up with a fine net and feed them to your aquarium
fish
- Use cooking oil
I tried cooking oil for the first time last year and I'm pleased to announce
it works splendidly. You pour some onto the top of the water in your butt and that's
it, you could even use discarded oil from deep frying if you have it. As it floats
on the surface, the oil prevents the larvae from reaching the air and so kills them,
it also traps and kills adults that come down to lay eggs or larvae that trying
to emerge. You don't even need to have a continuous layer, about 50% of the total
area works just as well, it does start to rot down and turn very peculiar as it
does so, but stays effective for around a month or more. I've not been able to gauge
how long properly as rain meant that I lost a couple of applications in the overflow,
but it has these commendations:
- It's cheap, any cooking oil floats, so the lowest priced budget brand
does just as a good a job as any.
- It works really effectively.
- It's totally organic - well it's food isn't it? not a chemical as
such.
- It doesn't seem to kill the rat-tailed maggots in the water butt
- indulge me here - these are the ugly looking larval stages of a species of
hoverfly, while I don't like the looks of them, I do admire their adaptation
to where they live and I do like hoverflies.
The only downside is that you need to keep an eye on it and top it up every now
and then if it rots away or gets washed down the overflow pipe. Only use the water
from the butt for larger mature plants not seeds or seedlings, but that applies
anyway - con or sans oil.
Favourite plant
One
of the best things about this time of year is that one of my favourite plants flowers,
this is Rosa felipes "Kiftsgate". A fabulous plant that I've always admired.
Mine is planted in a pretty bad position, growing up and through a lovely (though
overly vast) blue-tinged conifer that hangs over from my neighbours garden. Tired
of looking at this tree and even more so of the light it blocks out I decided that
the only climber that could cope with the (north facing) position was a rose that
really wants to be a tree - enter the
Kiftsgate.
It reaches about 12 feet up the tree so far with shoots that disappear into the
branches for about another 15 feet above this. At the moment it is a 15 foot by
12 foot spread of profuse yellow centred white flowers that by about 10 a.m. have
filled half the garden with the most wonderful scent. There's a bunch sitting on
my desk now, they've filled the study with perfume for the last two days, not long
lasting as a cut flower unfortunately as they're on their last legs now. If you've
room, then get one for your garden, like many roses, needs a bit of looking after
for the first couple of years, but once established it's away. Can also be good
grown along a low fence as a deterrent to people climbing over it, plant in the
middle and train shoots in both directions.
Jobs / Tips
Prepare container plants for some neglect if you're going on holiday. Try to
get someone to call round and give your plants some attention when you're away or
the chances are that your lovingly prepared containers may be full of dead or half
dead plants on your return. Before you go away place all your containers in a shady
part of the garden, in a place that is light, but receives as little direct sunlight
as possible - not under the leaf canopy of trees. Baskets can be placed on large
plants pots to keep them stable. Try to get your helper to water them thoroughly
at least once every 3 days. Don't worry about feeding or deadheading (I've had emails
of disasters inflicted by enthusiastic but unknowledgeable friends). If you have
any tomatoes, peppers or similar that might produce fruit while you're gone, let
them have these as they ripen, it will encourage them to visit and it's better for
the plant (well, you really rather than the plant) to have ripe fruit removed regularly.
Place a watering can or hosepipe in easy reach, in fact you could just leave a hose
uncoiled for easy access - make it easy for people to help you. Don't forget
to bring a stick of rock back as a reward.
Buy a pot of your favourite herbs from the supermarket and keep them going all summer
long. I've had this years basil on the go for over a month now. Get one of the
pots that are overstuffed with plants and split it into about 4 equal sized pots,
take a quarter of the original clump and split it into 2,3 or 4 and put the new
small clumps at the edges of the new pot. Place the new pots in a sunny protected
place and don't pick for a while. When you do start to pick the leaves, do just
that - pick the leaves not the stems. Pinch out any flower buds that appear and
this will encourage the plants to make more side shoots of leaves for your salads
and cookery.
Tie up hanging baskets - eh? Hanging baskets especially in exposed positions
can take quite a bashing from high winds which can spin the basket round and break
the plants against the wall. I always tie the actual basket of mine to the wall
or tree with string. If yours is in a very exposed position, then two screws plugged
into the wall and tied to the basket can make a great deal of difference to the
state of your plants and the life of the basket.
Time to plant the big 3. There are three garden perennials that are so easy
to grow from seed that I wonder why anybody ever goes to buy them from a garden
centre. These are;
Delphiniums
Classic elegance in a range of blues (red
ones also available, but why?) |
Foxgloves
(Digitalis) Woodland favourites, semi-shade or sun |
Hollyhocks
Giant plants and giant flowers, great value. |
And now is the time to buy the seeds. Sow them in
a seed tray in a sheltered part of the garden but out of direct sunshine, keep
the compost moist and they can't fail to germinate. Prick them out 15 (3 x 5) in
a seed tray and then eventually into 1L pots and then come the autumn, for a
minimal cost per packet of seed you can have dozens (if you look after them all)
of plants that will cost between £3 and £5 each down at the garden centre come the autumn.
They really are the easiest of perennials to grow and if you've
never grown anything from seed before, this should encourage you to greater and
more exotic victories to come.
This more than any other is the season where we can sit back (can any real gardener
sit back in the garden though?) and appreciate what we have helped nature to produce.
While it is still possible to plant container grown plants, they are not going to
amount to much this year and are for the future. It's more of a time for planning
the hard landscaping items in the garden. Is your deck or patio large enough, do
you have one at all, would a permanent built in barbecue area be useful?
Sow seeds of winter flowering pansies and violas. These are also amongst the
easier plants to grow from seed and if started off now will be good strong plants
by the autumn and so able to flower throughout the winter period finishing off with
a final flourish in the spring. Both are strictly speaking perennials and can be
kept going, but they are never again as good as they were in the first, so are best
discarded and replaced. One of the main reasons I grow from seed rather than buying
them as plants is that you can get a group of all your favourite shades and colours,
particularly effective in containers if all of one colour. If unsure go for violas,
smaller prettier flowers and often more vigorous.
A good time to take softwood cuttings of shrubs. Cut a piece of new stem about
6 inches long and remove all flower buds and all but the end 3 or 4 leaves. Place
several of these around the rim of a small plant pot filled with a mixture of sand
and compost. Water and place in a shaded place, don't allow to dry out. Check the
bottom of the pot after a month or so and pot up individual cuttings when you see
roots sticking through the drainage holes.
I always feel that it's worth trying almost any plant by this method. Even when
I read up how to propagate a particular plant I usually try this method as well
anyway. It's so simple, it's done at a time of the year when it is warm and you're
often out in the garden, and cuttings are frequently plentiful from prunings so
it's no disaster if they don't take.
Shrubs and climbers can be layered now as well. A technique that works with
many varieties and is often successful with the more difficult plants. A fairly
young shoot is brought down to ground level and a part of the stem buried about
an inch or two deep with a small mound of soil on top, it may be necessary to peg
particularly whippy shoots with a wire hoop. Then that's it, it will take longer
to root than in other methods, but scores in that there's little need to look after
the cutting as the parent plant makes sure that it's kept alive. Best left for a
about year before detaching and planting or potting up separately.
Keep
watering containers regularly. It's so sad when they are neglected and what
began as a vibrant collection of flowers dies slowly over a week or even a few days
for lack or regular attention. I've already spotted some that are on their way out
on my usual dog-walking route.
Contrary to popular belief containers are not
a low-maintenance option, far from it.
If you don't need to water them daily, they should be checked daily as a hot
day, particularly if there's a drying wind can suck all of the water out of a container.
When planting up any containers, then always go for the largest you can afford so
they don't dry out so quickly. Water, feed and dead-head regularly for the best
show.
Keep
dead-heading perennials and shrubs such as roses. This keeps them producing
more flowers rather than putting their energy's into seed and fruit production.
A daily round of the garden in the evening is ideal if you can manage it, or as
often as possible otherwise.
Water
autumn and spring planted trees and shrubs during hot dry spells. If you "baby"
trees and shrubs through their first summer, them you're usually fine from then
on. Give them an occasional thorough soaking though rather than a daily drizzle
as little and often teaches them to grow shallow superficial roots rather than encouraging
long deep roots that help them fend for themselves.
Look
for "suckers" on roses or grafted trees. These are shoots of the wild-type rootstock
that the ornamental foliage is grafted onto and will emerge below the graft union
which should be fairly obvious as a knobbly irregular region at the bottom of the
stem or trunk. If left, then the rootstock being more vigorous (hence its use as
rootstock) will take over the ornamental part of the plant.
Keep
pruning spring flowering shrubs as they fade, they can be pruned back to get a good
display next year. Forsythia, Ribes (flowering currants), Kerria japonica,
Chaenomeles (Japanese quince) and early flowering Spireas should all be pruned regularly
to keep them vigorous and flowering well.
They'll have all finished flowering by now and any formative pruning or restraining
of over-vigorous shoots is best done as soon as possible. Ideally each year you
should cut out one in three or four of the oldest braches down to ground level.
In this way, the plant always has plenty of growth left and no branch is allowed
to get old.
If you have a neglected plant, then they can
withstand being cut pretty much right down to the ground, drastic renovation
is best carried out over at least two years though. Leaving some of the more upright
and further back shoots intact so as to keep the plant going rather than dependent
on reserves in the roots when recovering.
Archive - selected parts of previous year's newsletters from this month
Sunbathing season again for the local birds again. They look quite ungainly
on the lawn, usually in the middle or somewhere fairly safe, one wing spread out
sideways, beak partly open, feathers fluffed out and looking up to the sky. At first
they look for all the world like a cat has got them, but soon perk up if they see
you and then adopt the air of some-one who has unexpectedly been caught unawares
on the loo. It's an attempt to help rid the bird of parasites such as fleas
by exposing them to the sunlight that doesn't normally reach them. I'm sure there's
also more than an element of hedonism in there too, if birds could purr, this is
when they'd do it.
This is the time of year when your garden should be looking pretty much at its best,
and feeling that way too, the garden in high summer has a feeling of maturity and
fecundity. All the plants are growing strongly, have put on noticeable growth this
year and still have the promise for more to come, while many flowers are over, there
are still plenty to come.
Garden Toys - How many do you have? I don't mean those giant darts or chess
sets you can get, but proper toys with a motor that "helps" you get through your
gardening chores in no time. I've noticed them a lot recently, it's the warm weather
that brings them out. One of my neighbours in particular doesn't lift a finger in
the garden unless it's to operate a switch of some powered gadget or other which
he obtains from a shed and carries out with great ceremony.
Sometimes I wonder if I'm doing this gardening thing right, my accompanying tool
is a pair of secateurs, and sometimes a plastic tub and a small ball of string.
I don't make much noise, it takes no time to get prepared and I have a peaceful
reflective time in the garden. On second thoughts, I like the way I do it, please
think twice before you buy anything with a motor for the garden.
I nearly bought a strimmer once, but was put off with the way they damage the
bark on trees when you're cutting the grass around them, even if you don't physically
damage the bark, it doesn't do it any good. I carry on like I always did, getting
as close with the mower as I can and then every now and then pulling up the long
grass by hand that grows up against the tree, shed or whatever. I bet my neighbour
irons his pyjamas too.
Mature garden slow make over - I mentioned last month how I'd taken out a large
poor quality lilac and replaced it with a bamboo. A month on I'm pleased to say
that it's looking really good. The bamboo is getting established and the other plants
that were shaded by the lilac are now able to grow better as they have more light.
There's a variegated grass Phalaris arundinacea - gardeners garters, a
Spirea I planted at the same time and Vitis coignetiae - crimson glory
vine that are all enjoying the extra energy from the sun and easier access to rain
water.
So encouraged, I'm now looking elsewhere in the garden for other established
but essentially not so good plants. Next on my hit list are one of my favourite
plants, the Delphiniums outside the living room window. Now I love the flowers
on these plants, but applying a very critical eye this year have decided that while
they're good, they could be better. I grew them from seed that I collected myself
and while there are some good plants, there are also some that are just so so. I'll
probably get some F1 hybrid seed or maybe even one or two named varieties bought
as plants to replace them with.
Over the longer term there's another lilac to remove, flowers too dark for me
and the plant is too close to the house and so vigorous the flowers are only really
appreciated from upstairs windows, and then the biggest decision, trees in the back
garden, there's 3 apple trees none of which are very good varieties and a teenage
Stella cherry tree that produces blossom and baby cherries, but the birds get them
all long before they're any where near eating size or ripe. I need a few months
to consider those spaces and what will replace them.
I've got a hankering recently for topiary and trained trees, I fancy big boxwood
"pillows" and maybe a cloud-trained shrub of some description somewhere.
Favourite weeds - Can you have a favourite weed? I do in that there's some I
like better than others as they're easier to get rid of. These are ones that grow
tall and have strong stems, I can grab the bit that grows up through all the other
foliage and pull the whole thing up from the roots without the stem breaking off
- makes weeding a whole lot easier. While on the subject of weeds, I'd love to know
how it is that even though I go round on a regular basis, that there are some weeds
that grow to huge proportions without me noticing? All of a sudden there's one that's
about half my height (and I'm not a midget) where a couple of days earlier, I was
sure there was nothing there - They're growing fast at the moment - keep the hoe
or your weeding bucket moving.
It's not difficult really... - There's nothing like spring and early summer
to make gardening seem easy. The main reason that people fail their plants is that
they leave them for too long so they starve, die of thirst or get beaten up by the
natives (plants, insects and diseases). Reasonable results can be achieved easily
with a bit of regular effort. If you want your garden to look good with minimal
effort, then go with the flow, don't grow what won't grow easily and don't dream
up with hard work schemes such as of collections of containers that need to be changed
regularly, extensive perennial borders, or ornamental ponds.
If you want a garden with regular seasonal interest from ever changing seasonal
bedding plants or you want to grow difficult to obtain (grow from seed) or fussy
plants, then expect to make more effort and / or acquire more knowledge.
Many years ago when I was learning to drive I had one particularly rubbish lesson,
the instructor obviously aware of my exasperation with myself pointed out some little
old lady heading confidently off across a roundabout where I was sitting waiting
nervously. "If she can do it, then so can you". The same applies to gardening, anyone
can have an admirable garden, it only becomes more difficult when you expect it
to happen with minimal effort or you expect to be able to dictate to Mother Nature
against her wishes.
Rain gods
In ancient times, people performed rain dances - they did it a lot - and sometimes
the rain gods were impressed and sometimes they weren't, mostly they weren't, but
when they were they made it rain. As we passed from ancient times to donkey's years
ago, to longer than your great granny could even remember, to your vague recollection
of the oldest person you knew as a child mentioning it once, to the present day,
the rain gods became more and more neglected. Rain dances became rarer and the rain
gods sadder.
Then one day, we chanced upon the perfect rain dance. Not only was it presented
perfectly, but the greatest champions from around the world were brought together
to perform it, they and only they were permitted to perform - the gods were pleased,
nay, the gods were ecstatic.
The only thing is that the beneficiaries of the rain dance did not recognise
the value of what they had created and sometimes cursed the rain gods. The "Great
and Good" cursed the rain gods most of all and they were most inconvenienced, though
the common people were inconvenienced the least and benefited the most. The gods
liked this aspect greatly.
The rain dance was given a name, it was called "Wimbledon Fortnight".